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Just south of Épernay, a 12-mile-long, chalk-covered ridge rises from the countryside and is covered in 7,500 acres of vines, 97% of which is Chardonnay. This hill is the Côtes des Blancs, the most iconic sub-region of Champagne's smallest, major growing area (also of the same name). While one might assume that the region is named for the white grapes that decorate the hillside, the Côtes des Blancs takes its moniker from the bright white soils rich with chalk. These unique soils are prime for growing Chardonnay. The chalk provides a reliable water source for the wines; it's porous enough to prevent vines from being waterlogged and absorbent enough to retain water through dry spells. The white color of the soil also reflects heat from the sun up into the canopy, which aids in fruit ripening. Champagne is generally a cold-growing region, so this added heat and light boost is hugely beneficial. For generations, the Gonet family has been deeply rooted in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs. Originating from Beaujolais, they transplanted their passion for vineyards to Champagne in the 15th century. In the early 1800s, they established their own Champagne house, a testament to their unwavering commitment to the region. Each successive generation has contributed to the family's legacy, with the most recent patriarch, Michel Gonet, expanding the cellars in Avize and redefining the winemaking process in the 1970s. The family's holdings span 40 hectares in the grand cru village of Le Mesnil sur Oger, in Vindey, on the Sézannais hillsides and the slopes of Montgueux, affectionately known as the Montrachet of Champagne. With the Les Compères Blanc de Blancs, Michel Gonet has embarked on a new partnership with two sommelier friends, Rajat Parr & Marco Pelletier. Together, they sought to create a single-parcel Champagne from a cherished plot in the Côtes des Blancs. The small vineyard, Les Hautes Mottes, nestled in Mesnil sur Oger, is home to old-vine Chardonnay. Michel meticulously selected French oak barrels from the Damy cooperage and aged the vin clair for 60 months on the lees before secondary fermentation. The result is a classic and quenchable Champagne. The nose is a symphony of lemon zest, orange blossom, and freshly baked croissants, leading to a finely effervescent palate with a creamy, textured mouthfeel and a hint of minerality that echoes the chalky soils these vines call home. - ACME Fine Wines |
