Taittinger Blanc De Blancs Comtes De Champagne
| Vintage: | 2013 |
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| Description: | We are pleased to announce that we have just received two of Maison Taittinger's finest Champagnes directly from a European cellar with impeccable provenance. The quality of Taittinger has risen markedly lately as these new arrivals will attest. This trend can be traced back to 2008 when Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger was able, after a three-year struggle, to buy back his family's Champagne operation from Miami's Starwood Capital Group. In this era of rampant multinational corporate takeovers, it is a rare and welcomed event when a family succeeds in buying back their long-held business. At the time of the family buy-back, a commitment was made to emphasize the best, most fruit -expressive juices, which are found in the "cuve" section of the press, in order to burnish the vibrancy and longevity of the finished Champagnes. Under the direction of Managing Director Damien Le Sueur, an eco-friendlier approach has been taken in the vineyards. As he explains: "Our philosophy is to be sustainable and to add less and less products in the vineyards, but we are not dogmatic about an organic approach." Grasses are now planted in mid-rows of more than 80% of the firm's 800-plus acres of vines and ploughing is the preferred method of weed control. The company employs more than 700 pickers and purposefully pays them by the hour, not by volume, which is rare in Champagne. As Le Sueur notes, "We explain to them what we want in terms of quality and tell them to be selective." A myriad of other quality tweaks were instituted. Le Sueur's mindset is both zealous and meticulous as he says: "We have to be extremely focused on quality, to adapt continually and to question our practices every day. Details, details, details!". First released in 1952, the Comtes de Champagne Blanc des Blancs is Taittinger's flagship bottling and over the years it has established itself to be in the league of Salon and Krug's Clos du Mesnil- which is to say that it is viewed as one of Champagne's most iconic Chardonnay cuves. The Comtes (which is always fashioned exclusively from Grand Cru Chardonnay grapes) trademark is a penetrating, crystalline structure combined with an uncommon depth thanks, in part, to partial fermentation in new oak. This 2013 is simply a masterful rendition. The 2013 growing season was generally quite cool and culminated in a late September harvest- the very sort of conditions that were the norm before the global warming trend of recent decades. The result is an incandescent, tightly-wound Comtes that displays, in spades, all the earmarks of a true classic for the ages- as the following reviews confirm. James Suckling 98 Points - " Fantastic complexity here with aromas of toast, biscuit, lemon, almond, chalk and some fennel. It's long, sleek and mineral, with tight, very fine bubbles and so much tension and precision. Very long and chalky finish. Disgorged end of 2023. Drink or hold.". Wine Advocate 96 Points - "This concise review highlights Taittinger's newly released 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, a standout cuve from the house, shaped by the vintage's classic profile. Aficionados of this cuve will be pleased to find that it exemplifies the distinctive style that has garnered Comtess global recognition: The 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne's bouquet is compellingly fresh and minty, revealing aromas of white fruitnotably pear and applemarzipan and sweet spices, as well as a light touch of citrus mingled with classy autolytic notes. On the palate, this is a structured, tensile and ethereal Champagne with high aciditya sign of a classic vintageanimated by a mousse of striking finesse and delicacy. Although already enjoyable, it should develop well for several decades.". Vinous Wine Media 98 Points - "Rich, sumptuous and explosive, the 2013 soars out of the glass with a captivating mix of tropical fruit, apricot, passion fruit, baked apple tart, mint and yellow flowers. It is one of the most explosive, extroverted Comtes I have ever tasted. Impressive.". Wine Enthusiast 98 Points - "This beautiful Chardonnay from five top Grand Cru vineyards is textured with fruit that is still impressively perfumed. Its concentration has allowed it to remain perennially young. Although there are hints of toastiness, the Champagne has many more years of potential. Drink now and at least up to 2027." Roger Voss |
| Price: | $ 199.98 |
| Price in original currency: | None |
Available from Hi-Time Wine Cellars
| Address: |
250 Ogle Street Costa Mesa, CA 92627 United States |
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| Telephone (toll-free): | 800-331-3005 |
| Telephone (regular): | 949-650-8463 |
| Fax: | 949-631-6863 |
First added to 1000 Corks on September 11, 2024.
