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Hourglass Wines, founded by Jeff Smith, takes its name from his childhood home and vineyard on Lodi Lane in St. Helena. This location, the shortest East/West crossroad between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail, is at the pinch of the valley, connecting the 'Hourglass.' In 2012, armed with 24 producing acres and a majestic mountainside winery, Hourglass Wines welcomed veteran winemaker Tony Biagi. Tony, a fellow experimentalist, is involved in every minute detail from vineyard to cellar, providing the precision and attention to detail required to take Hourglass wines to the next level. With the addition of Tony, Hourglass has continued to push boundaries on their quest for the Holy Grail. Recognizing that everything begins in the vineyard and employing a simple yet scientific approach to winemaking, Tony has led Hourglass through its refinement phase in stride.In keeping with the thoughtful, experimental philosophy that drives Jeff and Tony, the Hourglass team has embarked on a new venture with their Mabon series. This is not just a business venture, but a passion project for Jeff, his wife Carolyn, and Tony, who are ardent admirers of Rhône Valley wines. They have long believed the wines of yesteryear California resembled the make-up of the famous blends of the Rhône. Mabon is the creative outlet for all to explore these varietals, styles, and the heritage vineyards of California. Their stellar reputation in California and trusted relationships with growers throughout the state laid the path for Tony and Adrien Halpin (Assistant Winemaker at Hourglass) to gain access to the historic Hemar Vineyard in Alexander Valley. The Hemar Vineyard is one of the few remaining "mixed black" vineyards in California with vines aged between 50-100 years old. Mixed black is a term used to describe the old-school field blend plantings popularized by Italian immigrants in the late 1800s that at the time were commonplace in California. Grape growers planted a random assortment of vines across multiple varietals to make one final field blend wine. In present day, Hemar Vineyard is believed to be a mix of Zinfandel, Alicante Bouschet, Carignane, Petite Sirah, and Grenache; but the exact spread is unknown.Approaching the 2019 Mabon Heritage Blend much like they do with the Hourglass wines, Tony and Adrien use their exacting winemaking techniques to showcase the unique and remarkable personalities of the vineyards with which they work. For the 2019 Mabon Heritage Blend, the wine was aged in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new. The concentration of aroma and flavor stands out in this dark-fruited, richly textured wine. Brambly, wild berries, spiced plums, and cracked pepper swirl out of the glass and lead into a full-bodied palate with velvety tannins and subtly spiced notes along the lingering finish. - ACME Fine Wines |
