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We often get asked by wine writers what new trends we see in the wine industry. Some are heartfelt, earth-conscious, or monetary-based movements from what we regularly witness. For instance, Cabernet might not be in vogue to some start-ups because the cost of buying high-quality fruit has become unattainable. Or, looking into the future, specific varietals may be less viable given rising temperatures in particular regions. For others, and ostensibly a healthy majority, there are personal reasons for choosing the road less traveled. For two friends we recently met, Bill and Lane, a love for Mediterranean varieties sparked their interest in this venture. Beginning with Nero d'Avola and Vermentino, two common and recognizable native Sardinian varieties, they set out to "discover the potential of grapes from Sicily, Sardinia, and Santorini in the diverse microclimates and geologies of California." They not only want to produce wines from these grapes that already are established, but they see a future in cultivating new plantings in places where the grapes will thrive, their characteristics will represent their origins, and their style will express their surroundings as they capture the elements (sun, wind, temperatures: part of the overall terroir) reminiscent of their heritage. A roll call of the previous, current, and future release wines vinted by William Lane is quite esoteric, with some varietals having less than 100 acres planted in California. One example is Catarratto, a white varietal indigenous to Sicily and the most widely planted grape on the island, with only 85 acres planted in California. Historically, Sicilian winemakers have used Catarratto primarily to vinify Marsala and as a blending grape for IGT white wines due to its penchant for high yield and slightly oxidative qualities. Catarratto is the type of grape winemakers love, as it takes generously to the crafter's hand and has a wide range of stylistic outcomes dependent on the choices made in the vineyard and the cellar. Bill and Lane discovered the small vineyard for their Catarratto through word of mouth. Situated in the mountains west of Temecula, tucked into an avocado grove, the vineyard lies at 1,110 feet. The high elevation forces the vines to struggle to find nutrients and water in the soil, producing fewer berries of more impactful flavor and concentration. The wine ferments "low and slow" in cooler temperatures over an extended period to maintain the fresh citrus notes. Bill and Lane blended in 5% Chardonnay for body before aging in a combination of used French oak, fiberglass, and stainless-steel vessels. This wine is delightfully bright, showcasing the whole spectrum of citrus aromas. Lemon blossom, lime zest, and grapefruit juice notes fuse into racy highlights on the palate, balanced with texture and body. Alluring toasted almond and spiced pear flavors linger through an extended finish. - Acme Fine Wines |
