I flew back east a few days early for Mother's Day this year. The first restaurant I went to after arriving in Philadelphia was, of course, Le Bec-Fin.
Le Bec-Fin is an institution, and Philadelphia is very lucky to have Georges Perrier. Other nice restaurants come and go in this town, but this one is always at the very top. If Georges were to ever depart for another city, it would be devastating to Philadelphia.
The recession has caused a few changes to the menu since I'd last been there. They have a $15.23 lunch express with either the soup of the day or a salad, a hamburger and dessert.
This is, as you can imagine, quite a change from the past. I had to try it.
The soup was exactly what you would expect from Le Bec-Fin: fancy and wonderful. It was a corn soup with blueberries. They bring the soup bowl out with the base and then pour the stock in front of you.
Georges has resisted the trend of of adding exotic ingredients to the hamburger to make it fancier. There is no foie-gras or truffles. Instead you get a brioche bun, grilled prime beef, caramelized onion puree, cherry tomato confiture, and of course pomme frites (french fries).
It's obvious the ingredients were all of the highest quality. But in the end I was longing for some melted provolone, raw onions and Heinz ketchup. Some things just aren't meant to be gourmet.
Le Bec Fin has abandoned their traditional dessert cart during lunch. It used to be that they wheeled out dozens of desserts and you would choose as many as you wanted to try. Most people probably just chose a handful. My mother though would always pick practically everything.
Instead you can now order a single dessert for six dollars or sample three desserts for $12.
For my mother, getting rid of the dessert cart is as bad a betrayal as Vichy. She wasted no time in telling the hostess, the waiters, the busboy, and anyone else who would listen that they should bring it back.
For my part, I'm glad it's gone during lunch. It was just too overwhelming sitting there trying to eat a dozen cakes after an already larger meal. The one I chose (pictured above) was the perfect size and absolutely delicious.
In my mind nothing goes better with a hamburger than a glass of Champagne. But the cheapest by the glass was $20. With much regret I passed, deciding that the price didn't match the spirit of our new economic times.
Le-Bec Fin remains the best restaurant in Philadelphia. If you're visiting you need to eat there, and if you live in Philly you owe it to yourself to be eating there regularly.
But, please, if you go, order the full prix-fixe meal. It's only $35 at lunch and you can choose any appetizer, entree, and dessert. If all you want is a hamburger, you should just get it elsewhere.
Of special note for wine lovers: obviously Le Bec Fin has a great wine menu. But nothing beats BYOB, especially in these lean economic times. On Monday nights they allow you to bring your own bottle with no corkage fee!
There will be a special Trimbach wine dinner June 2, 2009.
